Pearl’s Summer Residence in Key West

June 16, 2012 — Key West, FL

Okay. So you’ve seen the glam pics of isolated anchorages, brilliant sunsets, and crystal waters, but every boat needs base at some point. This is a place where you buy your groceries, fill the water tanks, do laundry, pump out the holding tank, and do repairs.

Pearl’s home base for the summer is actually a marina, the Sunset Marina in Key West, specifically. Why there you may ask? Boats in the Gulf have a couple of options, they can either leave for the summer, or find a base that’s protected from hurricanes and bad weather that defines summer around the Gulf of Mexico.

Pearl’s current location is at a former submarine base, at the end of a long channel, at the around the northeast side of Key West. The Marina is well protected from high winds except from the north-north-west. It’s also in a very shallow area. The average depth for several square miles surrounding the marina is about 3 ft. All of this makes for a good Hurricane Hole — hence Pearl’s location.

Additionally, the marina has concrete floating docks, a decent ship’s store where one can get sundries, showers, laundry, relatively easy access to other services, and excellent fishing. Oh! And the price is right. Marina’s and moorings in Florida are egregiously expensive. Docks similar to the one I was at in Portland ($250/mo) run about $1500 in Florida. Crazy. I, however, am paying almost as much as I did in Portland to sublet the slip of a friend of a friend.

All told, I couldn’t be more pleased. I’ve always wanted to explore the Florida Keys and this is my chance.

New Orleans, LA to Sarasota, FL via Panama City

New Orleans was a great experience. Bourbon Street with James and Denise was really fun. We had regrettably bid James farewell after a mildly crazy evening on Bourbon Street. James actually fled directly to the Airport in the cab that dropped us off at the Marina after our revels. He was concerned he was being “Shanghaied” — in the very best sailing tradition.

The Seabrook Marina where we were staying was incredibly friendly and hospitable. We’d met some really nice people, but, we had to leave.

On April 19, Denise and I untied the dock lines and headed east along the GIWW headed for Pass Christian, Mississippi, along with Jack and Sharolyn of Heaven’s Island, and Bob and Ellen of Shibumi. While Denise and I were all for anchoring out, the other two boats who’d been traveling together from Kemah, TX were less enthusiastic about doing so. Pass Christian, MO it was.

pass christian to sarasota

Pass Christian is a cute little harbor. I realized why it was so named when after entering the marina: the entrance was so shallow that by the time you tied up, you’d found religion. Besides that, the most notable feature of Pass Christian for me was the food at Shggy’s Beach Bar. It was outstanding. I have yet to eat a better tuna tartare.

Since there seemed to be an acceptable weather window — low pressure system was moving into Boloxi the next evening — I decided that we should take the opportunity and head off for Tampa rather than wait around.

Denise and I headed off under clear blue skies, dolphins played in Pearl’s bow wave, it was warm and humid, Denise decided it was bikini time. We had wind pretty much on the nose as we headed out so we didn’t even bother to raise sails. We just motored.

As we passed Ship Island and the Fort that was on it, Denise and I chortled at all our friends who were back freezing various parts of their anatomy back in Portland. This was the life! We finally had warm, blue water, and dolphins. Ship Island receded into the background. We were about to be “at sea.”

That was the easy bit. The rest of the trip proved to be quite eventful. As evening drew on, we started to see lightening to the west, behind us. That was a bit unsettling as Pearl’s mast was the tallest thing for miles. Denise, who was at her best early in the morning, took the early watch while I got on email via the ham radio to my fiend Joe. Joe confirmed my worst suspicions by looking at weather radar: we were being boxed in by weather behind us and to the south of us. Decision time: head for Tampa or redirect to Pensacola or Panama City. We chose to head to Panama City.

As it turned out, that was a good call. On the one hand, we got pounded by the weather. On a couple of occasions it rained so hard that visibility was reduced to less than 100 ft. Fortunately, our previous experience on the GIWW had prepared, so the storms that hit us weren’t as unnerving as they could have been. When we finally made it into Panama City, it was raining so hard we had trouble distinguishing where the city marina was located. We finally found them, and tied up at the fuel dock as is was late and the harbor master had taken off for the night.

Picture Gallery

Denise and I spent a couple of days in Panama City recovering from our joust with the weather and waiting for things to get more settled. While the part of Panama City we were in seemed pretty depressed, I took the opportunity to chat with local tackle stores, and purchase some fishing gear that I was assured would work on our trip through the gulf. The best advice I got as it turns out came from the harbor master at the Panama City Marina. The lures he recommended kept getting hit over and over as we sailed down from Panama City to “Tampa.”

The trip from Panama City down the coast was the best time we’d had yet. For the first time since leaving Portland and her last sail on January 01, Pearl had all her sails up, and was flying along on a beam reach. We moved down the coast at a pretty good clip and arrived in Tampa late evening on the April 26. This was a bit unexpected. We had planned to get to Tampa around daybreak.

From Kemah, TX to New Orleans, LA

Most people ask me why I initiated this trip from Kemah, TX, rather than some other place. The reason is simple. My brother Suren and his family live in Houston, which is about a 45 min ride from Kemah. That made accessing and staging the boat there super easy. Suren is a has always been remarkably generous with integrating people into his home, so basing the boat in Kemah was a no-brainer — family support.

There were three people on board Pearl for this leg of the journey: James, a friend form Portland, Denise who had helped glue this trip together more or less from the beginning, and myself. While all of us had varying degrees of sailing experience, none of us had any significant blue water experience and experience being in open water for as many days as it would take to get to Tampa.

The trip from Kemah to New Orleans lasted about a week. We took off on April 01 from the South Texas Yacht Services facility where Pearl was recommissioned and did a short 2.5 mi hop to the Seabrook Marina just so we got the dock lines untied. This first step, however trivial, was in some ways the hardest — pushing off into a new lifestyle that was more or less unknown.


View Kemah, TX to New Orleans, LA in a larger map

From Seabrook, it was another short run to Galveston, our jump off point for Florida. My original plan was to head directly from Galveston to Tampa. Due to the nature of sailing, however, I wasn’t sure that we would get James to Tampa in time for his flight out. Additionally, i wasn’t sure how all of us would handle an extended period in open water. On the basis of advice from an experienced local boater who’d done a bit of work on Pearl’s electrical system, we opted for the more conservative route up the GIWW (Gulf Intracoastal Water Way) from Galveston to New Orleans.

 

Picture Gallery

Back to Key West from the Tortugas

May 12, 2012 — Key West, FL

Back at a dock in civilization. Showers! Connectivity! People. Bustle. I miss the cleanliness and clarity of being at anchor, but we had to head back to ship Joe off to his life.

The trip back was pretty uneventful. We cleared the mooring pretty quickly after getting up — not waiting for breakfast, which Denise produced under way. After exiting the channel from the Dry Tortugas under power, we raised the sails and tried to catch a couple of boats in the distance that had left earlier. We did pretty well until the boats managed to point impossibly higher than Pearl, and the wind dropped, and we lost them over the horizon.

Sails down, engines on, we picked a direct line back to Key West. Passing the boats from earlier in the day around Boca Grande, we discovered they were motorsailing.

We got to Key West around sunset, and what a fabulous sunset it was. It couldn’t have been a better ending to a fun weekend trip. I can’t wait to head back.

Fort Jackson and The Dry Tortugas

May 11, 2012 –The Dry Tortugas, FL

After a pleasant evening and night at Boca Grande, and fortified with one of Denise’s hearty breakfasts, we were off to Fort Jackson, and the Dry Tortugas. Fort Jackson is pretty large and and used to house a couple of thousand people. The fort is built of some 16 million bricks, all of which had to be shipped in from Pensacola. Since there are springs or other sources of fresh water, the “basement” level of the fort consists of a giant cistern — now brackish due to the incursion of salt. We spent the morning pottering around the Fort. It was fun.

As the day drew on and it got warmer, we decided to go snorkeling. Denise and Cita seemed to be veteran snorkelers. Joe on the other hand was a complete novice. We spent a little time getting him accustomed to the experience before attempting to find a reef. I have to admit that I was impressed by how quickly he took to it.

Boca Grande Key, en route to the Dry Tortugas

May 09, 2012 — Fort Jackson, The Dry Tortugas

Boca Grande is what I had envisioned when I dreamed about cruising: very few people, open spaces, slightly wild, almost completely off grid. Very cool.

Our first stop out of Key West on May 08, was Boca Grande Key. It’s a small key about 20 mi out of Key West.  En route, I trolled a lure. As we got out of the harbor channel, I hooked a decent sized Mahi Mahi (Dorado). The fish was about 10 lbs, and therefore a keeper. Mahi Mahi are very pretty. They are brilliantly colored in golden yellow blended with blue-green. Taking this fishes life was something that gave me a lot of pause for thought. He was beautiful. It seemed like a shame to kill him. Denise the daring was given the task of dispatching him, gutting, and filleting him. I’m not quite up for that yet. he was dinner for a couple of days.

Boca Grande is the prototypical deserted island. It has one palm tree and a lot of scrub. That’s it. The water around it was shallow and crystal clear. Denise and Cita got quite excited when they started to see the bottom as we approached. There were two other boats when we arrived. We anchored and headed in for some time in the warm blue water that we’d been craving. This was what I had been hoping for ever since Pearl left Texas.

The next day after Densie whipped up one of her customarily hearty breakfasts, we headed off for the Dry Tortugas.