Guana Cay, Abaco, Bahamas

Guana Cay is just the next cay up from Man O’ War. It is due North when leaving Marsh Harbor. We’ve visited Guana a couple of times. It’s complexion is completely different to any of the other Keys we’ve been to.

Guana is a very pretty cay. It is the home of Nipper’s famous (or infamous) pig roast on Sundays. Lisa and I stopped by there briefly one Sunday. it’s one of those “must do” things in the Abacos. I have to say I was underwhelmed by the experience. Nippers had a bit of a Spring-Breaky feel to it. There were lots of youngish people standing around drinking and taking selfies. There were lots of other people trying to be youngish doing the same thing.  If you want that sort of entertainment, Key West is way more fun.

The beach that Nippers overlooks, however, is spectacular. Even on a Sunday it wasn’t packed. The water’s spectacular and the sand is pretty much perfect. We aren’t sure exactly what there is to do on Guana besides dive/snorkel and go to Nippers or Grabbers, but the cay definitely has a nice feel to it. Perhaps we’ll spend more time on Guana and get to know it better.

In the mean time, this is what we have.

 

Weather Windows and Crossing the Gulf Stream

Getting to the Bahamas requires crossing the Gulf Stream. For most people, the task is either intimidating or completely routine. The difference comes from understanding conditions one’s likely to encounter in the stream. The stream can be a raging hell cat or a docile kitty. Since we crossed the gulf stream and seem to be getting around the Bahamas ok, we figured we should share some of what we have learned.

DSCF6575 - Version 2Conventional wisdom on crossing the stream is to get across as quickly as possible and avoid crossing when the winds have a Northerly component to them.  The idea here is that since the Gulf Stream (or more correctly Florida Current) flows towards the North, any wind from the North opposing the current creates a nasty, potentially boat eating, chop.

Before we crossed the Gulf Stream, Lisa and I did a bunch of research on how to find that magical weather window to get a smooth ride over. Unfortunately, we didn’t find much detail on the exactly how to pick a day. Fortunately, we have a great resource in Vanessa, a friend of ours in Key West. Vanessa pointed out a several things that we needed to factor in before making a decision — the most important being current.

Rule #1: Know the current and avoid opposing winds

Vanessa’s guidance was to avoid situations where the wind and current are opposed. This applies to the Gulf Stream as well as other areas like the North West Channel and Tongue of the Ocean in the Bahamas, and pretty much anywhere else like the West Coast of the US where you can find strongly opposed wind and current.

With crossing the Gulf Stream, this is a little trickier than just picking a south wind. The gulf stream has eddies that spin off periodically. If you catch one of these eddies, it’s entirely possible to have most of your ride be smooth and then get beaten up in the end when you hit an eddy with an opposing south wind.

Rule #2: Look for a wave interval in seconds that’s greater than 1.6x the wave height in feet.

What makes life uncomfortable isn’t wave height per se, but how steep they are. For example, three foot waves aren’t a problem. Three foot waves on a two second interval will make Pearl buck like a bronco. I was given this rule of thumb by a fisherman on the Oregon coast when I was contemplating crossing the Columbia Bar.

In general we look for a wave period that more than 2x the wave height and have been quite comfortable so far. The math is easier with 2x.

Rule #3: Use your OWN judgement

Regardless of what the weather gurus, services, and anyone else says, use you own judgement and interpret the data yourself. It’s your boat. It’s your life.

Everyone has a different comfort level. Chris, a good friend of ours, enjoys surfing his boat down large waves, a bottle of rum and cutlass in one hand, the wheel in his other, and a cigar stuck between his teeth. No offense to Chris, but he’s been sailing most of his life and has a very different skill and comfort level to Lisa and myself. That’s something he can do safely.

Chatting over drinks with various people, we’ve heard lots of tales of regret where someone decided to join a group of other boats and had a miserable time or a dangerous ride. Lisa and I prefer to use our own judgement even if it means we travel by ourselves. We take our time and pull back whenever we are not comfortable.

As a result, Lisa and I tend to pull data from a number of different sources before we make a GO / NO GO decision. What we like to see is a consensus between all the data sources. There appear to be at least two different weather models that services use that can offer quite different forecasts — hence our interest in consensus.

1. Hybrid Coordinate Ocean Model (HYCOM)

Hycom offiers insights into what gulf stream currents are doing — particularly eddies. If you would like to find out more about HyCOM, you can browse their website. What’s more interesting, however, are the forecast models for the speed and currents layers for the Florida Keys and the Gulf of Mexico that are found here.

There are two links to check out. One is an animated forecast for the speed and currents layer for the next 30 days. The animation gives you a good sense for what’s going on but it zips by pretty quickly. You can step through the individual images here. Make sure you read the information at the top of the page to figure out what to look at.

While this isn’t the most user friendly site, it does give you access to raw information that other sites synthesize.

2. BuoyWeather

We like Buoyweather for several reasons. The most important being that you can create virtual “buoys” along a route that you are planning save them as favorites, and either get automated daily emails or send an email to query their servers for that predefined location. You can also get passage forecasts that are optimized for low bandwidth connections. The site contains a lot of information, you just have to play with it for a bit to get it dialed in to suit your need. While you can get decent information off the free version of the site some of the most useful features require a subscription.

Note: for some reason, access to buoyweather in the Bahamas is quite slow.

3. AviationWeather

This is an aviation rather than sailing related website. It does, however, offer great insight into the “big picture,” where the highs, lows and fronts are and how they are moving. The key here is understanding what fronts are going over you. I like looking at the surface prognostication charts for this.

Typically in Florida and the Bahamas, as a front approaches the wind shifts to the north. As is passes, the wind clocks around to the east, south, and west before returning to the prevailing pattern for the season. Looking at the speed at which the fronts travel will give you a sense for the intensity of the weather you may encounter.

4. NOAA Weather

No weather evaluation would be complete without a look at what NOAA has to offer. It’s pretty easy to get lost on their site. I like to check the Marine Forecasts and the Hurricane Forecasts at the very least.

Another feature this site offers is the ability to get text-based information via email (ftp-email gateway). This is super helpful on low bandwith connections like packet radio links. There is a lot of information you can get using this method. It is intended for geeks and is NOT user friendly.

5. PredictWind

We use predict wind as well as Bouyweather. While I like the wind forecast wind and swell forecast graphics, I find the service a bit annoying. I feel like they try to upsell you on higher levels of service by versioning their product in annoying ways.

 

We’ve found out that if we stick to the rules listed above and check our weather information sources, we can have a nice time sailing. Eventually, we will get caught by something unexpected — like a squall with 65kt winds while we were at anchor. That for us, however, is a part of the magic of cruising.

We hope you’ve found this post interesting and/or useful. We’d love to hear from you if you have alternate services, rules, and/or tips and tricks that you use to avoid weather.

 

Critters: Man o’ War Jellyfish

I think most people have heard of Portuguese Man ‘o War jellyfish — and are terrified of the stings they can deliver. I believe very few people, on the other hand, have encountered one.

Portuguese Man o’ War Jelly Fish are pretty common in the Florida Keys during certain times of the year. Lisa and I spotted one while we were sitting on in Pearl’s cockpit while parked in the Boca Chica channel off Key West one day. Lisa is an avid critter catcher, so we decided to take a closer look from the safety of the dinghy.

Initially, the  Portuguese Man o’ War looks like a partially inflated plastic bag , container of some sort, or possibly garbage. On closer inspection, it looks like bluish sausage with an inflatable sail and a bunch of black strings attached to the bottom. It’s the black stings that are the stinging bits.

What  we found really interesting was that the Man o’ War we followed sensed us and changed it’s behavior. Initially it seemed to want to get closer. After we had looked at for a bit, it seemed to want to get away. Besides being “sentient” the Man O’ War also seemed to have several little black fish living among it’s tentacles. Curious. Check out the pictures and video below.

All in all, this is a fascinating creature. According to Wikipedia it’s not just a single multi-celled organism, but a symbiotic colony of Zooids. You can read the entire wikipedia article for more details.

 

Man O’ War Cay, Abaco, Bahmas

Man O’ War Cay is one of the three “must visit” destinations in the Abacos. It’s a curious community of very closely related people, about 70% of whom are named Albury. I’ve been told that until relatively recently, these people tended to keep to themselves and marry within the community. The result is that most people on the island look very similar —  a bit odd.

Also, unlike the other islands, Man O’ War Cay seems to have had a culture of segregation. In other words Black Bahamians were not permitted to stay on the island after dark. This isn’t true of most of the other islands in the Bahamas. There doesn’t appear to be racial tension, per se, though there seems to be a general dislike and distrust of Hatians.

Man O’ War is pretty, neat, clean, and tidy. It has cute little clapboard cottages with nicely tended yards. it also has a long tradition of boat building and sail making. I have to say that the traditional Bahamian boats made here have beautiful lines.

Man O’ War has a very protected but shallow harbor. It’s probably the best hurricane hole in the Abacos. The harbor is very sheltered. As it has two opening, surge from a hurricane can run through easily rather than just building up.

All told, it was a neat place. While it a nice, it doesn’t seem like it’s a community into which one integrates — like Hopetown. I’m glad we’ve seen the place, and we may use it as a hurricane hole, but my guess is we’ll just as soon head further south.

Critters: Flamed Box Crab

As mentioned previously, Lisa in an avid catcher of critters. One of her recent finds was an odd looking crab. It was shaped like a bun,  or dinner roll, more or less when it had it’s claws folded in.

This little guy looked like he’d been hit in the head and was barely alive. He was rolling around in the sane when we found him. He looked like a rolling rock — since rocks don’t roll, we had to check him out.

It took a bit of effort to identify the critter. I think it’s a flamed box crab. What do you think?

 

Hopetown Lighthouse, Abaco, Bahamas

The Lighthouse at Hopetown is one of the towns more noticeable features. It was built in 1862, has an elevation of 120 feet, and a 23 mile visibility. It’s one of three remaining manual lighthouses. Rather than being electric as most lighthouses are these days, it’s powered by kerosene. In other words, it’s a giant Coleman vapor lantern that needs to be pumped up, preheated, and ignited.

The light is driven by a winding mechanism, much like a grandfather clock. The mechanism needs to be wound every 2 hours — a fact that has to be really annoying for the lighthouse keepers. The turret that houses the mantle (the bit that generates light) and lenses is heavy — weighing several tons at least. Rather than using an oil-based lubricant or grease, the turret sits in a half donut-shaped mercury bath. Mercury seemed like an odd choice for a lubricant, but when you think about it a bit, mercury would work pretty well. Given that I had access to the turret,  tried to turn it — as expected. It required only a minimal effort to get it moving. Given the weight and how long the light has been in operation, that’s a pretty impressive feat of engineering.

Technically, it’s names the Elbow Cay lighthouse and keeps people off the Elbow Cay Reef. It also offers a great vantage point for surveying the entire area.

Pictures follow.

Looking to the North. Parrot Keys on the left and the top of Elbow Cay on the right.
Looking to the North. Parrot Keys on the left and the top of Elbow Cay on the right.

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Little Harbor to Hopetown, Abaco, Bahamas

Getting from Little Harbor to Hopetown makes one feel like one is in a children’s story.

The route from Little Harbor to Hopetown. Note that the lighter the color of the water the shallower (around 2 ft) it is.
The route from Little Harbor to Hopetown. Note that the lighter the color of the water the shallower (around 2 ft) it is.

First you leave the Bight of Old Robinson (or Spencer’s Bight, as the case may be). Skirt around the top of Sandy Key navigate the shifting sands at the south end of the Tilloo bank. From there, it’s due north through Buckaroon Bay, keeping west of the Tilloo Bank, towards Witch Point.

It’s important to stay close to Witch Point, but not too close as there are shoals off it. Then, keep heading north staying close the west side, to avoid Lubbers Bank. Turn  east around the north side of Lubbers Bank and head north, towards the Nothern most of the parrot keys.  From there you spot the entrance to Hopetown Harbor…. Eh?

The preceding sounds a lot like directions that Johnny Depp would get in “Pirates of the Caribbean.” We love it here.