Fishing the Flats and Blue Fish Channel

We went fishing once again with our friend Capt. Ruben Dias a couple of weeks ago. While we’ve been honing our fishing skills by going out every day, it’s a bit difficult to get to the places there are interesting sized fish in our Dinghy. This has prompted us to consider getting a little fishing boat that we can take out and even possibly do fishing charters, but that’s another story. Back to fishing with Ruben.

The fishing goal for the day was pretty interesting. There were still Tarpon rolling in the channel in front of our marina. Lisa and I had also noticed some Permit (Trachinotus falcatus) “tailing” around the same channel. Our plan for the day, therefore, was to try to catch Tarpon and Permit.

Permit are pretty interesting fish. They are broad and flat and look a bit like Jacks.  They are also shy and pretty skittish, which makes them hard to catch.  Permit feed on crabs, shrimp, and other stuff that you find on he bottom around mud flats. When they do so, they feed head down, with their tails stuck in the air — hence the term tailing — generally facing up-current. To catch them, ideally you present them with a live crab floated down to them with the current.

Fortunately for us, Ruben had been out the day before and had a couple of live crabs saved. We did, however, have a couple of different types of fake crabs as well.  While crabs will work for Tarpon as well, what we really needed fro them were Pin Fish (aka Sand Perch).

Previously, Lisa and I had set out Pin Fish traps. These are mesh boxes that you bait with chum (ground up fish waste). They have  with a couple of entrances through which the Pin Fish enter and then … it’s Hotel California. Anyway, this time, instead of setting out a trap, we had to catch our Pin Fish as we had lost two traps over the previous couple of days.

Pin Fish Trap

Juvenile Pin Fish hang around grassy flats, so out first order of business was to head to one and catch a bunch. To do this, we used what’s called a Sabiki rig, essentially a bunch of tiny hooks attached to dropper lines that are baited with slivers of squid, and chummed up a bunch of Pin Fish. Catching the pinfish was surprisingly easy. The Sabiki rigs allow you to pull in several at the same time. Since it was the crack of dawn and my coffee hadn’t kicked in, Lisa and Ruben did the honors.

Catching Pin Fish

After we’d got a decent stock of Pin Fish we headed back in the direction of the Marina and what we hoped was Tarpon having their breakfast.

When we got to the channel, there were a couple of Tarpon rolling every so often. That meant they were feeding, but there were only a couple of them instead of the decent number we’d seen the previous time we were out. I wanted to head in, gas up the boat, and go chase Permit. Ruben, however, wanted to try his luck.

The tide was still coming in. We decided to set up and drift in with the current along the path that the Tarpon would be feeding. On the first try, we got pushed to leeward by the wind faster than we expected. On the second try, Ruben adjusted for the wind and we drifted down nicely along the channel. We all cast out. I was on the bow of the boat  and cast downwind. Lisa was in the middle and cast out in the same direction. Ruben cast upwind. Just about the time we got to the leeward side fo the channel, Ruben got a strike and hooked up.

This time, when Ruben tried to hand over his rod, both Lisa and I declined. It was a good thing we did because Ruben had hooked an 80-90 lb fish. The fight was on! The Tarpon stripped Ruben’s line. As it tired, it came close to surface, it jumped. Ruben reeled in. As the fish got close to the boat it stripped his line again. While we got the fish close to the boat on several occasions, we didn’t get a chance to grab the leader and call the fish “landed.” Finally, after about an hour, the Tarpon manage to break the leader and was free.

While the broken leader was unfortunate, it wasn’t really surprising. Ruben was using a 50 lb fluorocarbon (monofilament) leader that pretty much disappears in the water. While Tarpon don’t have sharp teeth that will slice a plastic leader like Sharks or Barracuda, they have a hard mouth with very abrasive lips. Eventually, their lips wear through the leader — if they don’t spit the hook out when the jump.  I think even though Ruben was disappointed, he was also a bit relieved. The fish worked him pretty well. The next day, he had bruises on his fore arms from fighting it.

 

Unfortunately, I have to take a some of the credit for Ruben’s lost fish. Fishing for Tarpon on light tackle is not just about the guy on the rod landing the fish. The person driving the boat plays a part by herding the fish in helpful directions, letting the fish run and tire itself without stripping all the line, and bringing in close when necessary. There’s a magic balance here. Ruben did a great job with this when Lisa had a Tarpon on line previously — myself, not so much.

After the Tarpon, we headed into the marina to gas up the boat and head out to the flats to the South of the Marina looking for Permit and perhaps Redfish (Red Drum). Flats fishing is different. Essentially, you’re fishing in a couple of feet of water. The fish you’re hunting are “bottom feeders,” that are typically foraging for small fish,  crabs, and shrimp that live around the sea grass and outcroppings. This style of fishing involves spotting the fish and then casting at them with an appropriate bait. The fish are pretty skittish, so ideally, you cast ahead of the fish and drift your bait towards it. This is not a sport for the impatient.

Fortunately, Ruben has a “flats boat” that’s designed to run in shallow water. Typically, a flats boat will run in less than a foot of water, with most of them needing about 8 inches to float. Running in very shallow water is a problem with a regular outboard because the prop wash churns up sand and silt that can get drawn into the engine. Therefore, when on the flats, these boats are poled by the guide who stands on an elevated platform on the stern — or an electric trolling motor. The platform serves three functions. The first is that it offers an elevated view from when to spot fish. The second is that it allows a longer pole to be used for poling, and third it’s a handy cutting table for prepping bait. The downside to a flats boat is that it becomes really bouncy if there is any chop — it doesn’t have enough of a ‘V’ in the hull to cut through waves.

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I was convinced that the flats onto which we were headed were full of Permit and Redfish, and Ruben dutifully obliged by poling Lisa and myself across it trying to find fish. We were sadly disappointed. There were no Permit or Redfish to be seen. All we saw were a couple of Spotted Eagle Rays cruising along.

Having given up on the flats, we decided to head North to a popular fishing location: the Blue Fish Channel. Lisa at this point was eager to catch something that she could sink her teeth into at dinner. So off we went fishing for the ubiquitous Snapper.

The Bluefish Channel lies to the North of Key West and more or less parallels the  Calda Channel which is a secondary entrance into the Key West harbor. It’s interesting because it drains the grat bank to the north of Key West.  What this means is it’s a majot “highway” for fish that come onto the bank (flats) to hunt. The tricky bit with the Blue Fish Channel is that the Southern end it’s only a couple of feet deep. Ruben who’s pretty familiar with fishing it had no problem getting us in.

I love this area of the flats. It’s a quick ride from Key West, but makes you feel like you are lot further out than you really are. It’s also picturesque, you have water in various shades of blue punctuated by little green islands. Anyway, we headed up Blue Fish Channel, dropped anchor and started chumming.

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It didn’t take long for Lisa to start hooking snapper and Blue Runners. She was hoping for some large Mutton Snapper, but all we got were Mangrove Snappers and Grunts. Having gotten bored with what we were catching, I decided to use a Shark Rig  (wire + fluorocarbon leader) with a small Grunt to see what I could catch. Unfortunately for me, having got a decent strike and a short run, my line broke. As Ruben Determined later, my line (mono-filament in this case) had got dried and/or worn out by the tropical sun.

This was fun mixed bag fishing. You get what you get. Our fun, however, was cut short by a thunder storm that closed in from the North prompting us to head back to the harbor and the safety and warmth of Pearl.

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Tarpon and Flats fishing with Reuben

Last Sunday Lisa and I went fishing with Reuben, a friend of ours who is a local fishing guide and Captain. I’d been quizzing Reuben for a while about fishing spots around Key West and techniques for catching the various species around here so he decided to take us out on his flats boat to show us how it was done.

The morning started out with fishing for Tarpon just off the marina where we are based. Tarpon, are super-fun-to-catch game fish that live around the Florida keys. They are pretty easy to spot as they roll at the surface, particularly when they are feeding. They are notoriously acrobatic like sail fish and marlin, and put up a really good fight. Large Tarpon can get up to 8 ft long and 350 lbs. They really are pretty spectacular.

While Lisa and I had hooked Tarpon previously, neither of us had “landed” one. Landing Tarpon entails bringing the fish into the boat and grabbing the leader. You aren’t allowed to actually take them out of the water as they are a protected species.

DSCF6028Anyway, after loading up the boat for a mornings fishing and collecting the bait fish we had in our trap, (see story about the eel) we set the boat up so that it would drift in the current through where the tarpon were feeding. We baited our hooks by hooking some of the  live pin fish we had collected through the upper lip, and cast them out. The point of hooking the fish through the upper lip is so that they can open their mouths, letting water through their gills and last longer.

We didn’t hook anything on either our first or second drifts. On our third drift, I thought I had a strike but really managed to foul-hook something on the bottom. Usually, if someone has a fish on, everyone else brings their lines in, which Lisa and Reuben did.

This time, once I cleared my line  Reuben cast out and immediately got a strike. Realizing that Lisa had never LANDED a Tarpon, he passed his rod over to her so that she could fight the fish. Being a guide, getting a Tarpon online was no big deal for Reuben. Amusingly Lisa thought he was just handing her a rod to hold before she noticed a the reel whining as the fish ran with the line and grabbed on.

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And then, the fight was on. The Tarpon Lisa had was pretty large. When they run, the run pretty hard. They also breach, jumping out of the water trying to break the line or shake it loose. As I’ve heard it, most fish are either marathoners (like tuna) that keep running, and running, and running, or sprinters (like Barracuda)  that strip your line and jump a bit and are done. Tarpon do both — it’s one of their features as they have a swim bladder through which they absorb oxygen, giving them tremendous stamina.  Lisa’s Tarpon kept running and rolling, flashing his colors in the clear Florida water. He also breached thrice, and I manged to snap a pic of him on one of his jumps.

It took about 30 mins for her to reel the Tarpon in. When she got it to the boat, Reuben grabbed the leader, making the “landing” official. His guess at the weight was 50-60 lbs. Good job Lisa!

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When Reuben tried to lift the Tarpon so that I could get a picture, the fish pulled gain, snapping the leader. While Tarpon don’t have large sharp teeth like sharks and barracuda, the have very rough lips that wear through line and leaders.

After that we did another drift but that was pretty much the end of the Tarpon’s breakfast time so we packed up and headed off into “the Back Country” for some flats fishing. DSCF6048

The back country of Key West is a series of uninhabited keys to the North (mostly) of Key West. The waters around them are pretty shallow, probably a couple of feet on average, hence the term “flats.” There are several different species of fish that inhabit the flats hunting around for various critters that live there. We headed out there looking for shark, red fish, and maybe some snapper. The picture below is from a different trip.

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Our first stop there was around Snipes Key. The water there was pretty cloudy and tannic from fermenting (dead) sea grass. Apparently, this is something that Redfish (Red Drum) like so we decided to try our luck. The water there is too shallow to use an outboard, so Reuben graciously poled us around, standing on the platform you see behind him trying to spot fish at which to cast top water lures (poppers). I half expected Reuben to break into song while poling,  but he didn’t oblige on that one.

We didn’t have much luck until we got into a deeper channel where I managed to hook a small Black Tip shark. He was maybe 3 ft long and weighed about 20 lbs?

DSCF6051After the shark, we decided to head back with a brief stop in one of the channels for some snapper action. This was a completely different style of fishing than what we had been doing before. This time, instead of using plugs or lures, we chummed the water and used squid on weighted lines, bottom fishing, sort of.

We caught a whole bunch of fish here, snappers and blue runners. Reuben managed to catch the smallest fish of the day, but then he really wasn’t trying to catch anything. He was very kindly showing us how and where to fish.

DSCF6058After that, we headed back in. The entire trip lasted about four hours, and it was a lot of fun. There was a lot of laughing. As far as guides go, if you ever need one Reuben’s a great guy to get. He has a quiet sense of humor and doesn’t take himself very seriously unlike many of the other guides in Key West. He is, however, a great teacher. Both Lisa and I learned a lot from him.

If you are wondering whether this was all sport, just catch and release, it wasn’t. We kept several of the snapper that we caught. There is nothing quite like fresh unrefrigerated fish that you’ve caught — for dinner. Here’s Lisa’s soon to be world famous Snapper Veracruz.

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Stay tuned for more adventures from Key West.

 

 

Lisa’s “Deadliest Catch”

For those of you who missed intermediate episodes, Lisa and I DID NOT off to the Bahamas as advertised. We had problems with our refrigeration system that eventually took about six weeks to resolve. Besides, we really weren’t interested in wandering too far from “home” during hurricane season.

Since we weren’t off exploring foreign lands, Lisa and I decided to explore where we are more thoroughly. By and by this evolved into getting more serious about catching fish — rather than fishing which is one of my more favored pass times.

As luck would have it, a friend of ours at the Marina who is a charter boat captain and an experienced fishing guide took us his wing and is teaching us how to hunt (and catch) the different species of fish around the keys — which gets me to to the point of this story.

By the way, the Florida Keys and Key West (in particular) are one of the most varied and productive fishing grounds on the planet. There are a variety of environments raging from deep sea (1000+ ft) fishing for Marlin and Sail Fish to bottom fishing for giant (500+ lb) grouper and sharks, to flats (very shallow) fishing for Tarpon, Bone Fish, and Permit. All of this is available within about 10 miles of Key West.

In order to CATCH fish here, however, it helps to have live bait. Yeah, I have learned to throw a cast net, but there are easier ways to catch bait fish — namely use a fish trap. So … our friend Capt. Bill generously loaned us a fish trap that he wasn’t using as well as a pen to hold the fish we trapped. We were ecstatic!

Lisa and I duly loaded the trap with chum (a disgusting fish-oliy goo) that attracts fish and laid it out on a nice patch of sand for our prospective. The first time we did this, we got a nice haul of bait fish, and had a great day hooking (but not landing) tarpon on light  spinning tackle.

The following day when we checked our trap,  it contained a whole bunch of the little gray faces of the grunts and snappers we were becoming accustomed. It also had a mean, green, rather annoyed looking … eel. Besides our bait fish, we had managed to catch a four foot green moray eel. You can see his face at the bottom left corner of the picture above.

Fortunately we spotted the eel before we up-ended the trap into out bait bucket on the dinghy. If we had, the very-irritated-by-this-point moray would have got loose in the dinghy which would not have been fun, to say the least. Discretion being the better part of valor, we decided to open the trap, let bait fish escape, and the eel depart without further ado. Even though they aren’t venomous, tangling with a 4 ft angry eel wasn’t either Lisa or my idea of fun.

Fun would be catching a 50 lb Tarpon or Tuna on 10 – 20 lb test. Stay tuned for more fishing adventures.